One of the oldest delimited wine-producing regions in Europe, Chianti Classico has weathered countless setbacks over its (at least) six-century history. But today the quality of Chianti Classico is at an all-time high, with ambitious young producers turning out some of the best bang for the buck in all of Italy. This article covers a brief history of the region, an outline of the styles in production today, and looks at a few of our favorite producers, most of which represent incredible value for wine collectors.
Steeped in Tradition
The area between Florence and Siena that makes up the Chianti Classico zone was cultivated by at least the Etruscan period, some three or four centuries before the Roman conquest of their Italian neighbors set up the first Roman Republic in 509 BCE. Wine grapes were a staple crop and became so popular among large-scale slave plantation owners that Emperor Domitian ordered many vineyards uprooted in AD 92 to make way for food crops to feed his starving empire. The term “Chianti” used to describe the wines of this region dates back to at least 1398, and by 1716, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III, formally defined the boundaries of what is today called Chianti Classico.
Why “Classico”? Well, in the 18th and 19th centuries demand for Chianti increased to such an extent that the world’s thirst could not be quenched by the original delimited zone, and bottles from further and further afield were sold using the famous name. By 1924, 33 producers had banded together to form the Chianti Consorzio “for the defense of the typical wine of Chianti and its historic zone of origin”, and in 1932 they succeeded in codifying the use of “Classico” appended to the region’s name to denote wines made in the original zone.
War of the Grapes
While the Consorzio’s success in 1932 should have paved the way for ever-increasing quality in the region, there was something rotten in the state of Tuscany. In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli had defined the typical blend of grapes that produced the best Chianti, which included not only a predominance of Sangiovese tempered by the local Canaiolo, but also a white grape, Malvasia (malvagia). Though the baron said the white grape “could even be excluded for wines destined for ageing”, the addition of white grapes would eventually be enshrined in law, forcing producers to include what the baron said “tends to dilute the product of the first two grapes… mak[ing] it lighter and more suitable for use as a daily table wine.” Not until over a hundred years had passed, in 1996, would the laws change to allow for the production of 100% Sangiovese wines in Chianti Classico, causing some quality-minded producers like Montevertine in Radda to abandon the appellation and bottle their wine under the simple Toscana IGT designation. Since the 2006 vintage, the blending of white grapes into Chianti Classico is no longer allowed, bringing an end to one of the most divisive and bitter struggles in the region’s history.
Modern Styles of Chianti Classico
Today, three styles of red wine are released under the Chianti Classico mark, each with their distinct requirements:
Chianti Classico
- Minimum 80% Sangiovese with the option to blend up to 20% other approved varieties (including Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot)
- Minimum 12% alcohol
- May not be released until October 1st of the year following the harvest
Chianti Classico Riserva
- Same grape requirements as Chianti Classico
- Minimum 12.5% alcohol
- Minimum 24 months aging from January 1 of the year following the harvest, including 3 months in the bottle
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (created 2014 for wines beginning with the 2010 vintage)
- Must be produced using estate fruit
- Minimum 90% Sangiovese (will be enforced starting in the 2027 vintage)
- Minimum 30 months aging from January 1 of the year following the harvest, including at least 3 months in the bottle
While old casks (often Slavonian oak) are the traditional ageing vessel for Chianti Classico, some producers opt for new barrique. This rather drastic stylistic divide requires the strict attention of collectors who favor one style or the other for their cellars.
The New Stars of Sangiovese
While Brunello di Montalcino continues to rest upon its laurels, the wine law changes in Chianti Classico in 1996, 2006, and 2014 have led to an explosion of talent in the region. Many of the most exciting wines are coming from established houses that are transitioning to the custodianship of a new generation. Better farming and a lighter hand in the cellar are now producing Chianti Classico wines that are far more subtle, complex, and balanced in their youth, without sacrificing longevity. There has never been a better time to buy Chianti Classico, and while the prices of a select few producers and bottlings (like the aforementioned Montevertine’s “Le Pergole Torte”) have begun to climb steeply, the vast majority remain incredible bargains.
Below you will find a non-exhaustive list of Chianti Classico producers that we feel are at the top of their game:
- Montevertine, particularly the legendary Le Pergole Torte – though the labels may not read “Chianti Classico”, these wines are made from 100% Sangiovese in Radda, entirely in the original delimited zone, and Sergio Manetti used the designation until 1981, when he was forced out for refusing to include white grapes in his blend. Since that rule was eliminated in 1996 and white grapes banned entirely in 2006, we feel his winery should be included at the top of the list, where it most certainly belongs
- Fattoria Felsina – the blend of Berardenga (sometimes bottled as a Riserva) and power of the Gran Selezione Colonia are commendable, but for our money, the Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Rancia is this exceptional producer’s magnum opus
- Isole e Olena – the 100% Sangiovese Cepparello is a good test of whether a given collector approves of the use of new oak in Chianti (though it is labelled under the Toscana IGT designation), while the basic Chianti Classico is as good a house red as ever one might desire
- Fontodi – known by many collectors for its 100% Sangiovese Flaccianello, the whole range of Chianti Classico wines uses only the region’s most famous grape and employs French rather than the traditional Slavonian oak
- Volpaia – both the 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico Riserva and the Vigneto Coltassala (now bottled under the Gran Selezione designation) are from high-elevation vineyards in Radda and are not to be missed